William e



Vdeclare that the following is a true,

@att-tt @with WILLIAM E. SMITH, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

Lette/rs Patent No. 101,39@ dated March 29, 1870.

IMPRovEn GRADUATBD RULE ANDPATTERN Fon TAILoRs.

' The Schedule referred to in these Letters L'atenb and making part of the same.

Be it known that I, WILLIAM E, SMITH, of Wheaton, State of Illinois, have invented a new and improved GraduatedRule for cutting ladies and childrens Dresses, Basques, and Sacks; and I hereby full, and 'exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings making partof this specicatiou, in which- Figure 1 represents the rule..

Figures 2 and 3 are no` part of my system, but are used 'for the purpose of facilitating the description o the mode of 4using the invention, these two figures representing dress-patterns which may be cnt by my system.

The object of-my invention is to provide-a single "rule by the use of which dresses may be accurately cut ont, and all of the curved lines be marked.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use myinvention, I proceed 'to describe the construction l and operation of the same.

`I call the narrow end of the rule the upper end, and it is suiciently wide to lay off thereon the neck of the dress.

The dotted curved line F E indicates the small neck size, and the'dotted curved line F G indicates the large neck size. A

On the straight edge of the rule are the graduated scales B and A. The scale B extends six inches below the small neck size, and is divided intov twentyfour equal parts, numbered from 18 to 42. This scale is' used for getting the si'ze of the bottom partd, fig. 2, of the front of the waist.

The scale A commences four and three-fourthsinches from the point E, and extends seven inches, and is divided into twenty-'three parts, and is used to find the lower part e, fig. 3, of the arm size in the back piece.

The point C is situated in the center of the rule near the upper end, and from this point the diverging linesH I J K, are drawn.

L is a straight line drawn from the upper point of the neck size F to the lower point of the neck size E, the use of which'will be hereafter mentioned.

In the center of the rule isy an elongated opening, M M, having on each side-of it graduated scales N and O. The scale N gives the distance froml the center point O to a point in the hack of the dress indicated by fin g. 3, and being the upper point of -that part of the arm-hole formed bythe back.

The scale O is ou the right side of the opening M M, and gives the'distance from the eenter'poin't O to the point g, iig. 2, of the front arm size.

On theright side ofA the rule, and near Athe center thereof, are the scales P and Q.

The scale P is divided into twenty-two parts, and is used :to find the size of the bottom h,.1ig. 3, ot' the back'.

The scale Q is divided into twenty-threel parts, and is used to get the dist-ance fronrthe center pointO to the upper point i, lig. 2, of the front arm size.

At the lower 'end of the rule' is another oblong opening V V, with the' scale Ufonl the right'side of this opening, and the corresponding portion of the lower end of the rule is used to form the large arm size, and a small arm size, R, with-a scale, T, is formed upon the-left of the lower end. The y'scales U and T give the length of the arm size. A

To illustrate the working of' this rule, I will sup` pose the measurement ofa lady to be-chest thirty- .four inches, waist twenty-tive inches, andflength of waist eighteen inches; the measurement being taken in the usual manner,- first, around the chest, drawing quite snug; second, from the point under the arm down to the natural waist; third, around thewaist.v

' To cut the front, rst lay the straight edge-ofythe rule, face up, on the straight edge ofthe cloth, after turning in one and one-half inch for hooks and eyes;

then make a dotat the points E and F, and dotthe line a; then connect the points E and Fbya straight '.lin'e, L. Then inse-rta pin into the'center point 0,.

and into the dot made at F ou the cloth; then turn the rule upon the pin until the diverging line H comes over the line L, and I nake a dot on the cloth at scale A at 34; then turn the rule again until the di# verging line I comes over the line L on the cloth, and make a dot at 34 in scale 0. Then turn the rule face down, with the point Y at the first dot made at 34, i, iig. 2, and draw a line at the edge of the rule'to point F, which forms the shoulder. Then turn the rule face up, and place 34.in scale U, at the first dot made at 34, t, fig. 2, the'edge of the oblong opening V passing through the second dot made at 34, g, iig. 2'; then draw a line, fromt' to j, lig. 2, being around the large arm size S to the pbint X in the rule. Then .measure eight inches down from'l the lowest part, k, g. 2,-of the arm size S, and make a dot, m. Then place the point Zin scale W, even with the front ,edge

of the cloth, and the edge of the opening M, on which is the scale O, even with the lowest part k, iig. 2, of the arm size; then make points-at figs. 4 and 7 for the top points of the darts l l, g. 2.- The location of the darts depends onl the size of the person. Then move the rule down to the point made, eight inches below the arm size, and make two points, one two` inches and the other four inches from the edge of the cloth, for the bottom of the irst dart. Then place the rule face down, with the point Y over thepoint` made for the top of the first dart, and the edge of the rule over the left hand dot at the bottom of the rst dart, and draw a line connecting' the two points.l Then turn the rule face up, with the point Y at the point made for the top of the rst.dart,`andlthe. edge ot' the rules o ve'n the righthand dotfor the bottom of the until the diverging rst dart, and draw a line connecting these points and you have the rst dart. Then make two points at the right of the rst dart, one being one-half inch from the same, the other three inches from the same, these points being made for the bottom of the second dart; then proceed as in marking the first dart, and you have the second dart. Thenplace the straight edge of the rule, face up, over thef dot m, fig. 2, with the inch mark D even with the front edge of the cloth, and make a dot, ln,.ig; 2, in scale B at 25, (the measurement around `the waist); then make a dot, o, g. 2, four and one-half inches (the amount takenup yby the darts) from the last dot n. YThenl place the face of the rule down, with point Y over the point j, fig. 2, and the other end over the dot a made for the back part of the front, and draw a curve line connecting the two points for the back of the front. Then make a point, p, fig. 2, one-half inch below the point fn, turn the rule face down, and place the point Y on the dot o, and bring the rule around to the dot p, and draw a linefrom o to p,- then make a dot, q, one-half inch below the first dart, and draw a straight line from the dot p t0 the front edge of the cloth, and you have the front of your waist marked.

Second, t0 cut theY back: place the rule face up, with the line c b over the straight edge of the clothL and make a point, Ir, iig. 3, at b, and 'also a dot, s, g. 3, at F, and draw a straight line connecting these points. Then insert a pin into the center point C and into the point made at F, turn the rule on the pin line J comes over the straight line drawn, and make a point, f, fig. 3, at 34 in scale N.; move the rule again on the piu until the diver-ging line K comes over the straight line made; then make a point, eig. 3, at 34 in scale A.v Then place the rule face down, with point Y at f, g. 3, and draw a line along the edge of the rule to the dot s for lthe shoulder, turn the rule face up, with point Y 'at e, g. 3, and draw a small curve line along the edge of the rule'to the point f, g. 3. Then, to find the width of the bottom of the waist, measure eight inches from the lowestjpoint e, iig. 3, of the arm size oblquely vThis may not be the down ltoward the left, and dot.

but to find the desiredpoint, place the rule face up, with fig. 4 even -with the straight edge of the cloth, and make a point, t, tig. 3, at 25, in scale I, (the rule passing through the above supposed poiut,) and the point. desired will be on this line eight inches from the point e, g. 3. Then place the rule face down, with point Y at the dot e, iig. 3, of the arm size, and draw a line from this point to the point t, iig. 3; then draw a straight line through point t at right anglesl with the front edge of the cloth, and you have the bottom of the back. Then make a point one-fourth inch from the frontedge of the cloth on the bottom of the waist; then draw a curved line -from e to u, iig. 3, the curve depending on the shape of the person to be itted, and this line indicates what is called the form i This rule may be made of sheet-metal or paste real'point desired,

board, or other suitable material.

The drawings are made upon a scale of one-hall' inch to the inch, a full-sized rule being twenty-one inches long.

I am not aware that there is in vuse any pattern, rule, or scale for cutting dresses consisting of a single piece. The arrangement ofthe scales upon one piece or rnle'is convenient,'and the curved lines iu mine are found to be iu a manner different from any other system. In actual use the rule and system have been found admirably adapted to enable even unskillful persons to fit dresses accurately.

I do not claim, broadly, cutting and iitting dresses and other garments by the use of patterns, as one system with patterns for doing this is shown in the patent to Catharine Dittenhofer, dated July 1'7, 1866.

Having thus fully described my invention,

What I claim as new, and desire to secure Yby Iletters Patent, is as follows: The within-described pattern, with its several graduated scales, slots, and curves, as shown, and for the purpose as set forth.

' WILLIAM E. SMITH.

Witnesses:

E. A. WEs'r, v111B. SHERMAN. 

